The underlying assumptions for a front-yard space: relatively flat or lightly sloped, loam / clay loam / clay sand soil, and that it's full sun or receives light shade but mostly sun. The below plan can be applied to any site, however, including moist to full shade -- once you make some plant switches.
1) Bed Prep
Spray kill the lawn or rent a sod cutter. The former will require using a non, pre-emergent formula (read the directions). Leave the dead grass in place, which turns brown within a week in warm temps. Plant straight into the grass. If using a sod cutter make sure you go deep enough to remove all lawn roots. Compost the rolls of lawn. Here are some myths to watch out for.
Don't sheet mulch (reduces water / air transfer to soil) or solarize (kills soil life). And never till (weeds weeds weeds).
2) Plant Selection
You'll want to find plugs at a local native plant nursery, university native plant sale, or via online wholesalers or retailers (we recommend Wildtype!). Always research plants by Latin -- it's far more accurate and efficient, especially when using the USDA and MNFI databases. Ahem.
Learn about the below plants by picking up a regional guidebook or researching online.
Heuchera richardsonii (7-9)-- spring bloom, leafy foliage, drift
Echinacea purpurea (5-7) -- early summer bloom, winter interest, drift as one or 2 clumps
Rudbeckia hirta (9)-- summer bloom, winter interest, 3 clumps
Eryngium yuccifolium (3) -- mid summer bloom, winter interest, clump
Allium cernuum (11-15) -- mid summer bloom, drift
Liatris aspera (3)-- late summer bloom, clump
Solidago speciosa (3) -- early fall bloom, clump
Symphyotrichum (1) -- late fall bloom, speciman
3. Design
You'll note in the above list both the plant numbers and the method of design -- drift, clump, or specimen. The reasons for these suggestions is not only how the plants grow and interact, but in showing design intent to neighbors who might otherwise see a weedy mess (that's also why the flower list is lean and that bloom succession is spread out -- don't overwhelm the small space). Plus, massing is a brighter beacon for some pollinators.
4. Mulching
You have two options, and neither involves using wood mulch.
1) Use a sedge species on 12" centers spaced evenly through the bed. Carex vulipinoidea, Carex albicans, and Carex blanda are all choices. Also toss in a few Geranium maculatum or Callirhoe involucrata plugs to weave in among the forb plugs listed above.
2) If planting in spring, sow in a short bunch grass like Bouteloua curtipendula. Lightly rake in.
Having a monochromatic, green base layer is also more pleasing to the eye, showing harmony and order -- something that will be the first criticism of any neighbor who prefers a carpet of lawn. Yes, this is color theory 101, but also a bit of genetic memory from our primate days on the savanna.
5. Management
In the first growing season weeds will be the biggest issue. Pull invasives (get a regional weed guidebook), deadhead annuals so they don't set seed, and in year two weeds will be almost non existent. Pulling weeds may just bring more seeds to the surface.
In year three or four you may need to replace or add flowers (or even thin others, like Rudbeckia). Autumn is the best time to revise for lower temps and more rain to help new plants get rooted.
In spring cut down the garden to 6-12 inches and either leave the material on the ground or compost.
6. Epilogue
Is it as easy as this? Nah. Every site is different, and every gardener has different wants and needs. To make the garden more formal use greater forb counts and mass in tiers (tall in back, short in front). To make it more informal spread the plants out singly or in pairs and increase species diversity. Observe the plants and wildlife -- in no time you'll be an expert on plant communities / plant behavior and can replicate the above over larger areas
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