A New Approach to Woody Invasive Species Control: Leveraging Native Warm-Season Grass Cover Crops

November 1, 2024

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As we head into the fall and winter season, tackling invasive brush in the Midwest remains top of mind. Our goal is to find effective, efficient, and environmentally sustainable solutions to control invasives, and our latest approach leverages native grasses for a natural and cost-effective solution. 

Moving Beyond Traditional Brush Control

The traditional method of controlling invasive brush often involves heavy reliance on herbicides and expensive equipment and human efforts. So when you make that investment you want it to be a durable long lasting solution. While herbicides can be effective, if we can use less of them, our environment will be better off for it.

Reducing our dependence on herbicides not only saves costs but also protects native ecosystems. Enter native warm-season grass cover crops as a nature-driven alternative that allows for sustainable brush control while minimizing the need for chemicals.

The Role of Native Grasses in Brush Management

Historically, invasive brush like Bradford pear, autumn olive, multiflora rose has outcompeted native grasses in our prairies, wet prairies and even open woodlands, leaving us with insufficient fuel for prescribed fire in those smothered areas. This fire, a powerful tool in our arsenal to rebalance the herbaceous/woody balance. Fire helps to control woody species and maintain a healthy ecosystem. By quickly establishing a native grass cover, we can restore this natural balance and reduce our dependence on herbicides. 

Choosing the Right Native Grasses for Restoration

After experimenting with various native grasses, we've identified many cover crops that are ideal for natural areas restoration. There are even several native cover crops that perform well in many environments like Canada Wild Rye (Elymus canadensis) and Virginia Wild Rye (Elymus virginicus). These are great at covering the ground quickly especially when trying to control herbaceous weeds in mesic and wet prairie and establishing grasses in oak woodlands.

However, these native plants are cool season grasses so when it comes to using them to establish fuel for controlled burning they can be limiting. These native grasses are usually still green during the fall burn season and sometimes late in the spring season so their burning effectiveness can be stunted. Cool season grasses have their advantages, such as two optimal establishment periods in spring and fall, however in the context of this conversation establishing fuel is top priority. 

The traditional challenge with warm-season grasses is their slow establishment, often taking 3-5 years to mature. That is where Side-Oats Grama (Bouteloua curtipendula), a warm season grass has emerged as a top contender when working on invasive brush in prairies, and wet prairies, even open woodlands. Side-Oats Grama bucks the 3-5 year timeline of most warm season grasses, germinating quickly and providing ground cover in its first year.  This rapid and dense establishment is crucial for quickly restoring fire-supportive fuel loads and suppressing invasive species.

This hardy, versatile grass germinates rapidly, spreads quickly, and can even produce seed in its first year. It's like having a team of tiny, hardworking gardeners establishing a fuel source and suppressing weeds at the same time. On top of that, Side-Oats seed is cheap!

One other added benefit we have noticed with our experimenting is that Side-Oats serve as a great cover crop in burn scar areas, quickly healing that area over and reducing herbaceous weed invasion. 

Remember this is a cover cope intended to cover the ground for a short period to time to solely achieve the goal of establishing fuel and temporary native cover. If you care to add diversity or add in longer lived warm season grasses back into the site once you have established the fuel , you can always do that, side oats is very accommodating to over seeding.

Brush Management Process Using Side-Oats Grama

  1. Control the Brush: Use your preferred method, whether it's cutting, forestry mowing, feller buncher, and/or herbicide application. If using herbicide use the least caustic choice and ensure it does not have a long residual that could inhibit seed germination.

  2. Seed the Area: Immediately after control, broadcast Side-Oats Grama seed, Elymus (native rye) and bluestem species, over the cleared area. Typically the best time to seed is between November - May. Since this species does not require cold moist stratification, we preferer to hold seeding until just before its germination period to avoid it becoming expensive food for the birds. This then would be optimal in April or May in many Midwest states. Seeding rate will vary depending on your desired outcomes and the sites needs. If you would like help determining a strategy please see details about consultation at the end of the article.

  3. Establish the Stand: Often times not much is needed to establish a thick stand of side oats. If annual weeds become an issue you can mow several times per year to keep them at bay (both height reduction and seed set prevention of weeds) to aid in establishment. In the first year you should be able to determine if your seeding was successful as they are quite apparent to the trained eye, just months after seeding. If seeding was not successful, determine the reason, mitigate the reason, and reseed the next opportunity. Usually by the end of the second year you should have a dense enough stand to conduct an effective fire on your woody invasive resprouts.

  4. Monitor and Manage: Regularly inspect the site and conduct burns to control invasive growth as needed to maintain the health of the grassland and control any new invasive growth. If necessary, a second application of broad leaf herbicide could be used to aid in control. Since broadleaf selective herbicide only kills broadleaf plants, and leaves grasses and sedges largely unharmed, your side oats will be largely intact after a treatment, although superficial damage may be noticed, please use your herbicide label to inform your choice. After your second treatment, again consider an over seeding to better solidify your efforts.

Benefits of Native Grass Cover Crops

This approach not only limits herbicide use but also promotes biodiversity, enhances soil health, and builds resilience into your landscape. Our natural solution offers long-lasting control that balances the ecosystem while efficiently managing invasive species.

We can provide more in-depth and customized plans for your natural area, and we can even accomplish this many times for free. Email us john@naturalcommunityservices.com

Winter services - be efficient and get a step on spring NOW with NCS discounts!

NCS emphasizes woody invasive species control and native landscape design, & wetland planning as areas of winter efficiency, expertise, and offers you a 20% discount on your woody invasives/brush removal, native landscape design and wetland consulting needs this winter! Contact me to learn how Natural Community Services can help you john@naturalcommunityservices.com

We provide a variety of ecological services in uplands and wetlands for all types of landwoners - and native landscape design should occur as part of a “Cover-It-Up” invasive to native revegetation process so control efforts yield a good return on investment! Judicious use of edge native groundcovers, and focal or hedgerow groups shrubs and trees of Michigan replaces upland and wetland invasives:

  • Wild ginger

    A low-growing plant with heart-shaped leaves and small bell-shaped flowers. It prefers moist, well-drained soil and full to partial shade. 

  • Wild geranium

    Prefers rich, moist soil but can tolerate drier conditions. It blooms pink-lavender flowers from late spring to early summer. 

  • Creeping phlox

    Native to the eastern United States, this plant is hardy enough to withstand colder climates. It rarely has pest or disease problems. 

  • Golden ragwort

    Self-sows vigorously, so you don't need to install many plants initially. It can grow in shady conditions and supports many insects. 

  • Purple coneflower

    A native perennial that produces large purple flowers that attract butterflies and bees. It prefers full sun and well-drained soils. 

  • Butterfly weed

    A native herbaceous perennial with showy orange flowers. It grows well in native plant gardens with lots of sun and very dry soil. 

  • Native trees and shrubs: https://www.wildtypeplants.com/woody-plant-plugs#:~:text=We%20are%20offering%20an%20increasing%20number%20of%20woody,the%20growing%20season%2C%20not%20just%20the%20dormant%20periods.

  • Native grasses: https://mitppc.umn.edu/sites/mitppc.umn.edu/files/2024-06/Guide-to-forest-understory-revegetation-buckthorn-2024_3.pdf

In wet environments, NCS provides wetland and water resources consulting (and restoration) services for HOAs, residential and commercial developers, landowners, companies, and more throughout the state of Michigan. Our experienced professionals are experts with the technical aspects of identifying and delineating wetlands, working closely with each of our clients to determine which wetland services are required for the full completion of their desired project.

https://www.naturalcommunityservices.com/consulting-services

To aid this mission, our wetland services includes:

  • Wetland Determinations

  • Wetland Delineations

  • Wetland Permits

  • Wetland Mitigation Plans

  • Wetland Banking

  • Stream Mitigation & Restoration

And as you may be aware - NCS Is the woody weed specialist in southeast Michigan! Noone cuts more acres of buckthorn than us!

While many of the herbaceous invasives are best tackled in spring and summer, winter is the ideal time to target woody species such as autumn olive, buckthorn, and honeysuckle.

Winter Invasive Plant Control Methods
Cut Stump Treatment – This method utilizes a chainsaw to fell individual trees and works well for anything from 1” saplings to mature trees. The stump is then treated with herbicide to prevent regrowth.

Cutting with a Brushcutter – For stands of smaller trees and shrubs up to 2-3” in diameter, a brushcutter can be a quicker option. You might have to bring in a chainsaw to take out the larger trees. This method also requires treating the stumps with herbicide.

Forestry Mulching – A forestry mulcher or mower is essentially a skid steer with a large rotating cylinder on the front. It will handle thick brush and even trees up to 6”DBH, turning them into a pile of chips. For properties with a lot of woody material to be removed, this can be a very efficient and cost-effective method. It is fast, labor-saving, and eliminates the need for brush removal from the property.

Girdling – Where larger single trees need to be killed but left standing, girdling is a cost-effective method. A chainsaw is used to cut a ring around the outside of the tree at waist height, ½” into the cambium of the tree. Herbicide is applied to the wound, killing the tree over time. This method is cost-effective but is inadvisable for public or heavily utilized properties due to the hazards of standing dead wood.

Hack and Squirt – A similar method is to take a small hatchet and hack a circle of wounds at the base of the tree or shrub, then squirt herbicide into the wounds to kill the tree. This method works well for invasive shrubs like buckthorn and Asian bush honeysuckle.

Basal Bark Treatment – Here, the herbicide is used directly on the trunk of the tree without cutting through the bark. Typically, the bottom 12” of the tree is sprayed with a combination of Garlon 4 (oil-soluble triclopyr) and basal oil, which soaks in and kills it. It doesn’t work for every species but can be useful in certain circumstances. One of these is controlling Tree of Heaven since exposure to the sap of this tree has been linked to risk of heart conditions.

Winter application allows for very targeted treatment, minimizing herbicide use by concentrating it only where it needs to go and limiting off-target damage to nearby plants. It takes far less herbicide to apply around the edge of a stump or hack and squirt around the base of a dormant tree than to spray an entire tree in leaf.

Planning for Winter Invasive Plant Control - By assessing your site requirements, types of species, and budget, we can help you create the right invasive plant control plan for your property.

Finally, Phragmites on ice, is Nice! In wet areas, mowing invasive Phragmites as mechanical treatment is most often done in the winter when the ground is frozen, which provides better and safer access to these areas, as well as minimizes impacts to small animals and native plants. Cutting or mowing Phragmites takes place in the winter (December through March).  By cutting Phragmites, light reaching the ground is increased.  Light encourages germination of existing seeds lying dormant in the soil and in many cases desirable plants will recolonize the wetland quickly.

Even with a successful initial treatment, some regrowth of Phragmites is expected due to unconnected rhizomes and new seed germination.  For best results, the area is treated both chemically and by winter mowing for at least two consecutive years and is re-planted with native grasses as needed.  Future spot treatments may be necessary to prevent re-establishment. but all winter

Remove invasives & plant natives ASAP: Email john@naturalcommunityservices.com

Buckthorn is only 1 example of a growing problem… Now is the time to call NCS about all invasive shrubs & invasive species control, discounted this winter!

invasive shrubs are difficult to eradicate due to their prolific seed production and aggressive growth habits. Common invasive shrubs include multiflora rose, autumn olive, Japanese barberry, shrub honeysuckle, privet, and burning bush 1. Here are some control measures that you can consider:

  1. Mechanical control: This involves physically removing the shrubs by pulling, digging, cutting, mowing, or shading. This method is best suited for small infestations 2.

  2. Chemical control: This involves using herbicides to kill the shrubs. Herbicides can be applied as foliar sprays, basal bark treatments, or cut-stump treatments. It is important to follow the label instructions carefully when using herbicides 1.

  3. Follow-up!!!

  4. Native revegetation - follow up foliar sprays with reseeding using native prairie plants, you might find the following resources helpful:

    1. Prairie Nursery provides a comprehensive guide to establishing a native prairie seed mix. The guide covers everything from preparing the site to post-planting maintenance 1.

    2. The Natural Resources Conservation Service provides a guide to restoring degraded grassland to conservation prairie. The guide includes information on how to spray non-selective herbicides, complete a diverse dormant seeding, and control weeds 2.

Winter Woody Invasive Shrub & Tree Control

While many of the herbaceous invasives are best tackled in spring and summer, winter is the ideal time to target woody species such as autumn olive, buckthorn, and honeysuckle. Contact me to learn how Natural Community Services can help you john@naturalcommunityservices.com

Winter Invasive Plant Control Methods
Cut Stump Treatment – This method utilizes a chainsaw to fell individual trees and works well for anything from 1” saplings to mature trees. The stump is then treated with herbicide to prevent regrowth.

Cutting with a Brushcutter – For stands of smaller trees and shrubs up to 2-3” in diameter, a brushcutter can be a quicker option. You might have to bring in a chainsaw to take out the larger trees. This method also requires treating the stumps with herbicide.

Forestry Mulching – A forestry mulcher or mower is essentially a skid steer with a large rotating cylinder on the front. It will handle thick brush and even trees up to 6”DBH, turning them into a pile of chips. For properties with a lot of woody material to be removed, this can be a very efficient and cost-effective method. It is fast, labor-saving, and eliminates the need for brush removal from the property.

Girdling – Where larger single trees need to be killed but left standing, girdling is a cost-effective method. A chainsaw is used to cut a ring around the outside of the tree at waist height, ½” into the cambium of the tree. Herbicide is applied to the wound, killing the tree over time. This method is cost-effective but is inadvisable for public or heavily utilized properties due to the hazards of standing dead wood.

Hack and Squirt – A similar method is to take a small hatchet and hack a circle of wounds at the base of the tree or shrub, then squirt herbicide into the wounds to kill the tree. This method works well for invasive shrubs like buckthorn and Asian bush honeysuckle.

Basal Bark Treatment – Here, the herbicide is used directly on the trunk of the tree without cutting through the bark. Typically, the bottom 12” of the tree is sprayed with a combination of Garlon 4 (oil-soluble triclopyr) and basal oil, which soaks in and kills it. It doesn’t work for every species but can be useful in certain circumstances. One of these is controlling Tree of Heaven since exposure to the sap of this tree has been linked to risk of heart conditions.

Winter application allows for very targeted treatment, minimizing herbicide use by concentrating it only where it needs to go and limiting off-target damage to nearby plants. It takes far less herbicide to apply around the edge of a stump or hack and squirt around the base of a dormant tree than to spray an entire tree in leaf.

Planning for Winter Invasive Plant Control - By assessing your site requirements, types of species, and budget, we can help you create the right invasive plant control plan for your property.

Native Bees Needs - Wildflower Nectar, Pollen, and Habitat at Home

To anyone thinking of beekeeping, the research evidence is now undeniable - remove your lawn & buckthorn/plant natives, forget honeybee hives. Please consider building native bee hotels, ground nest habitat and especially NATIVE WILDFLOWER POLLINATOR STRIPS - see here .

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S2666515822000154
https://pollinators.msu.edu/resources/pollinator-planting/pollinator-gardens/
https://www.canr.msu.edu/nativeplants/plant_facts/local_info/south_lower_peninsula
https://pollinators.msu.edu/resources/pollinator-planting/native-bee-habitat/
https://pollinators.msu.edu/sites/_pollinators/assets/File/Bees%20of%20Michigan%20Handout.pdf

Invasive shrub control - NCS can help!

Controlling invasive plant species is a year-round battle. While many of the herbaceous invasives are best tackled in spring and summer, winter is the ideal time to target woody species such as autumn olive, buckthorn, and Asian bush honeysuckle.

Depending on species, property type, budget, and other considerations, there are many ways to keep woody invasive plants in check. There are many ways to attack this problem:

Winter Invasive Plant Control Methods

Cut Stump Treatment – This method utilizes a chainsaw to fell individual trees and works well for anything from 1” saplings to mature trees. The stump is then treated with herbicide to prevent regrowth.

Cutting with a Brushcutter – For stands of smaller trees and shrubs up to 2-3” in diameter, a brushcutter can be a quicker option. You might have to bring in a chainsaw to take out the larger trees. This method also requires treating the stumps with herbicide.

Forestry Mulching – A forestry mulcher or mower is essentially a skid steer with a large rotating cylinder on the front. It will handle thick brush and even trees up to 6”DBH, turning them into a pile of chips. For properties with a lot of woody material to be removed, this can be a very efficient and cost-effective method. It is fast, labor-saving, and eliminates the need for brush removal from the property.

Girdling – Where larger single trees need to be killed but left standing, girdling is a cost-effective method. A chainsaw is used to cut a ring around the outside of the tree at waist height, ½” into the cambium of the tree. Herbicide is applied to the wound, killing the tree over time. This method is cost-effective but is inadvisable for public or heavily utilized properties due to the hazards of standing dead wood.

Hack and Squirt – A similar method is to take a small hatchet and hack a circle of wounds at the base of the tree or shrub, then squirt herbicide into the wounds to kill the tree. This method works well for invasive shrubs like buckthorn and Asian bush honeysuckle.

Basal Bark Treatment – Here, the herbicide is used directly on the trunk of the tree without cutting through the bark. Typically, the bottom 18-24” of the tree is sprayed with a combination of Garlon 4 (oil-soluble triclopyr) and basal oil, which soaks in and kills it. It doesn’t work for every species but can be useful in certain circumstances. One of these is controlling Tree of Heaven since exposure to the sap of this tree has been linked to risk of heart conditions.

Prescribed Burning – Controlled burning of a site can also be an effective way to control both woody and herbaceous invasives on certain sites since invasive plants come up sooner in the spring than natives and have shallower root systems. Burns must be timed correctly to target invasives without harming native species.

Are Herbicides Necessary?
Any time woody materials are cut it is recommended to treat the wounds with herbicide quickly, applying it directly to the cambium layer of the plant. Not treating the wound will allow new sprouts to emerge during the following growing season. Aggressive, invasive species can quickly recover, rendering control efforts useless and/or adding greatly to the cost of treatment.

Most of the above methods do require the use of herbicides to achieve effective results. However, winter application allows for very targeted treatment, minimizing herbicide use by concentrating it only where it needs to go and limiting off-target damage to nearby plants. It takes far less herbicide to apply around the edge of a stump or hack and squirt around the base of a dormant tree than to spray an entire tree in leaf.

It is important to use herbicides responsibly. Make sure you are using products rated for the habitat in question. For instance, wetland projects must utilize water safe chemicals (such as water safe forms of triclopyr) to avoid adverse effects to fish, amphibians, and invertebrates inhabiting the ecosystem. Also, if you are treating in sub-freezing conditions, choose an herbicide that contains an antifreeze agent, such as Pathway RTU or oil-based triclopyr.

Planning for Winter Invasive Plant Control

Whether you are interested in restoring a native plant community, looking to meet regulatory requirements for wetland permitting, or simply want to keep the brush on your property under control, fall and winter are great times to plan your offense against invasives. By assessing your site requirements, types of species, and budget, we can help you create the right invasive plant control plan for your property. NCS offers 20% off winter discounts on invasive woody vegetation management - please CONTACT US here: https://www.naturalcommunityservices.com/take-action

Earth Day!

If you want to make #earthday as fruitful as possible - the best thing you can do is rip out exotics (lawn, vinca etc.) and plant native wildlflowers for wildlife!

Habitat loss and degradation is the leading cause of species decline in the U.S. Given that so much of the American landscape is covered with lawn (40 million acres to be exact), we see this as an untapped resource of open space to re-create that lost habitat. We want to replace the 40 million acres of lawn with 40 million acres of habitat gardens. 

The habitat garden is not the conventional garden of constant upkeep, such as fertilizing, pruning, and re-mulching, but a sustainable, less resource intensive garden that is more hands-off. It will require some weeding and watering, especially after it’s first planted, but the habitat garden is more self-sufficient, and is designed to mimic nature’s natural processes until it eventually takes off on its own. 

And it’s an approach that might also free up a few more of your weekend hours. The idea is to think not only about beauty but how your landscaping can also benefit the environment. It’s a brand new way for people to
look at the role of their yards. And to help the climate, include more than flowers. Plant shrubs and trees that will absorb and store more carbon. But not just any pretty plants. Dr. Doug Tallamy urges people to use native
species that provide food and habitat for pollinators and other wildlife. 

Tallamy wants to change this way of thinking. He says perfectly manicured grass does not benefit the climate or biodiversity. “What I suggest is we cut the area of lawn in half,” Tallamy says, “We have an area of lawn the size of New England in the U.S. right now. We’ve got to reduce that. So just look at your yard, and say, ‘I’m going to cut it in half and I’m going to cut it in half by putting native plants into my yard.'”

When we go native, we are respecting the land, and its history with the animals and plants that evolved to take care of us, and feed the system that feeds us, drain and clean our waters, and restore the soil and other natural resources that support our lives and all the wildlife we love.

Contact us to find out how we can help you reduce lawn in a beautiful restorative manner with a designed native butterfly, bird, or rain garden today! john@naturalcommunityservices.com


A New Age of Design

One great thing about change is it can help us reflect on doing better, thinking holistically and sustainably.

And for sustainability, the greatest impact each of us can have is on our own land - maybe change to grow our own food, but certainly to the benefit of the food producers, the water and other natural resources that sustain us and our beloved wildlife - change to grow not more turf or Asian or European exotic ornamentals, but native trees, shrubs, groundcovers, savanna herbs, wetland sedges in swales, and prairie flower strips to pollinate those fruit and veggie foods!

Our Changing Landscape & Environment

Before agriculture and urban development, the Midwest landscape was primarily comprised of prairie vegetation for thousands of years.

Due to large, robust root systems, native plants cultivated rich soil
with high organic content and created space within the ground that
guided rainwater infiltration. The landscape acted similar to a sponge,
easily able to absorb stormwater with little runoff into rivers, lakes, and streams.

In stark contrast, today’s turf and concrete landscapes are impervious and compacted.

Runoff is a common with rainfall and snowmelt, contributing to poor water quality, erosion, and elevated flood risks.
For years, native plants and naturescaping only existed along
waterways, or in wetlands, prairies, and nature preserves. However, as
more people discover the significant benefits they provide over
traditional landscaping, native plant landscaping design has become
common everywhere from parks to residential developments and large, institutional campuses.

Benefits of Native Plantings

In a world where natural habitats struggle to survive, the return of
native plants to everyday landscapes is an aesthetically pleasing change
with unique benefits:

  • Biodiversity – Native plants promote wildlife
    habitats, serving as a crucial source of food and shelter for birds,
    butterflies, and other wildlife.

  • Low Maintenance – Selecting plants that thrive
    naturally with the climate and soil conditions of a project location
    allows naturescaping to flourish without the use of fertilizers or
    pesticides. Native landscapes also rarely need to be watered or cut once
    established.

  • Money Savings – The initial cost of installing a
    native plant landscape is comparable to traditional lawn and shrub
    landscapes. However, significantly less maintenance time and cost are
    involved long-term. The naturescape essentially takes care of itself and
    is designed to do so.

  • Water Quality – Dense, deep root systems of native
    plants hold soil to prevent erosion and allow for better absorption of
    rainfall, which reduces urban runoff that’s harmful to water quality.
    Traditional landscaping typically utilizes synthetic pesticides and
    fertilizers. During rain events, these chemicals often run off into
    public water supplies causing contamination.

  • Enhanced Livability
    – Colorful, diverse plant material is aesthetically appealing. It also
    attracts wildlife and pollinators. An ecologically functional native
    plant landscape provides creativity in contrast to sterile, static
    landscapes.

Native Landscape Design Considerations

Drawing upon the knowledge and experience of our landscape architects and environmental
scientists, we’re able to guide the success of native landscapes for
our clients. As with any landscaping decision, there are many factors to
consider during the planning process, which are well-known and
practiced by our landscape design professionals.

Design Concept Development

All projects are tailored to meet the needs of our clients and
their individual landscape goals. Through the selection of appropriate
native plants, each landscape is designed to suit the conditions of the
project site.

Site Conditions & Preparation

Site preparation is significantly dependent on existing site
conditions and varies widely from removing invasive plant species to
amending and restoring damaged or compacted soil. Planting and seed
specifications are selected based on many factors including soil, sun
exposure, and climate conditions.

Construction & Planting Plans

Native plantings are typically started in the spring when
temperatures are mild and soil moisture is high to allow for the
greatest chance of survival. However, planting can occur at any time
during the growing season, but a watering schedule may be required.
Dormant seeding in late fall is also an option, when necessary. No
matter what time of year planting will occur, planting plans are created
in phases with varying levels of complexity to guide optimal plant
establishment.

Maintenance

Mowing, weeding, and burning are aspects of initial maintenance
to control invasive species that are often overlooked. We can assist
with the development of maintenance plans to foster the health and
establishment of your naturescape.

Monitoring

It may take anywhere from two to five years for a native
landscape to become well-established. As the naturescape matures,
additions to the site or changes to maintenance may be necessary. We can
provide long-term monitoring and recommendations as the landscape
progresses.


Native Plant Landscape Tips


Keep the following aspects in mind to guide the growth and sustainability of your native plant landscape:


Installation & Establishment

  • Plant in spring or fall

  • Tailor seed mixes to individual site conditions

  • Maintenance is critical for the first three years

  • Mow multiple times per year from May through September

  • Regularly remove invasive plants


Long-term Maintenance

  • Mow to a height of four to eight-inches once a year and remove clippings

  • Controlled burning is useful for larger areas instead of mowing to
    remove undesirable species and increase sun exposure to promote new seed
    growth

  • Remove invasive and unwanted species a few times per yea

Remote-Sensing - Ecological Landscape Survey and Design using GIS, CAD, and Sketchup in a Pandemic Environment

COVID-19 stranded & looking at your “greenup”, not knowing what to do? We CAN HELP, through remote-sensing and design software technologies! The pandemic stuff has made working a logistical nightmare in almost every vocation, ecological design included. .A variety of software programs have become embedded in nearly every step of the design process, from site inventory and analysis to final project deliverables and beyond. NCS can measure your site using GIS, analyze natural features inventory data, and producing drawings in CAD and image editing, rendering programs that help you see what your new place of plants and wildlife will look like. Software has evolved from tools to represent design to those actually affecting design ideas. It’s more than just software, as emerging technology such as drones, virtual reality (VR), LiDar, drive-by and oblique fixed-wing aerial vegetative interpretation, and 3-D rendering have enabled NCS designers to guide bioretention, stormwater, and native wildlife habitat planting designs remotely - we can. Whereas it was once adequate to master only a transit and sketch pad. We can GIS, Photoshop, and Sketchup grading and planting plans for colorful flood control and wildlife habitat today; and we’re giving you a unique spring-COVID-break 25% OFF discount on remote bioswale/rain garden design. Contact us today! john@naturalcommunityservices.com, or 248-672-7611

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Front-yard Pollinator Prairie Garden

The underlying assumptions for a front-yard space: relatively flat or lightly sloped, loam / clay loam / clay sand soil, and that it's full sun or receives light shade but mostly sun. The below plan can be applied to any site, however, including moist to full shade -- once you make some plant switches.


1) Bed Prep

Spray kill the lawn or rent a sod cutter. The former will require using a non, pre-emergent formula (read the directions). Leave the dead grass in place, which turns brown within a week in warm temps. Plant straight into the grass. If using a sod cutter make sure you go deep enough to remove all lawn roots. Compost the rolls of lawn. Here are some myths to watch out for.

Don't sheet mulch (reduces water / air transfer to soil) or solarize (kills soil life). And never till (weeds weeds weeds).

2) Plant Selection

You'll want to find plugs at a local native plant nursery, university native plant sale, or via online wholesalers or retailers (we recommend Wildtype!). Always research plants by Latin -- it's far more accurate and efficient, especially when using the USDA and MNFI databases. Ahem.

Learn about the below plants by picking up a regional guidebook or researching online.

  • Heuchera richardsonii (7-9)-- spring bloom, leafy foliage, drift

  • Echinacea purpurea (5-7) -- early summer bloom, winter interest, drift as one or 2 clumps

  • Rudbeckia hirta (9)-- summer bloom, winter interest, 3 clumps

  • Eryngium yuccifolium (3) -- mid summer bloom, winter interest, clump

  • Allium cernuum (11-15) -- mid summer bloom, drift

  • Liatris aspera (3)-- late summer bloom, clump

  • Solidago speciosa (3) -- early fall bloom, clump

  • Symphyotrichum (1) -- late fall bloom, speciman

3. Design

You'll note in the above list both the plant numbers and the method of design -- drift, clump, or specimen. The reasons for these suggestions is not only how the plants grow and interact, but in showing design intent to neighbors who might otherwise see a weedy mess (that's also why the flower list is lean and that bloom succession is spread out -- don't overwhelm the small space). Plus, massing is a brighter beacon for some pollinators. 

4. Mulching

You have two options, and neither involves using wood mulch.

1) Use a sedge species on 12" centers spaced evenly through the bed. Carex vulipinoidea, Carex albicans, and Carex blanda are all choices. Also toss in a few Geranium maculatum or Callirhoe involucrata plugs to weave in among the forb plugs listed above.

2) If planting in spring, sow in a short bunch grass like Bouteloua curtipendula. Lightly rake in. 

Having a monochromatic, green base layer is also more pleasing to the eye, showing harmony and order -- something that will be the first criticism of any neighbor who prefers a carpet of lawn. Yes, this is color theory 101, but also a bit of genetic memory from our primate days on the savanna.

5. Management

In the first growing season weeds will be the biggest issue. Pull invasives (get a regional weed guidebook), deadhead annuals so they don't set seed, and in year two weeds will be almost non existent. Pulling weeds may just bring more seeds to the surface.

In year three or four you may need to replace or add flowers (or even thin others, like Rudbeckia). Autumn is the best time to revise for lower temps and more rain to help new plants get rooted.

In spring cut down the garden to 6-12 inches and either leave the material on the ground or compost.

6. Epilogue

Is it as easy as this? Nah. Every site is different, and every gardener has different wants and needs. To make the garden more formal use greater forb counts and mass in tiers (tall in back, short in front). To make it more informal spread the plants out singly or in pairs and increase species diversity. Observe the plants and wildlife -- in no time you'll be an expert on plant communities / plant behavior and can replicate the above over larger areas

  • Visit CONTACT US Page

  • Call John 248-672-7611

  • Email Liz - info@naturalcommunityservices.com

Why Native Plants Matter!

     Restoring native plant habitat is vital to preserving biodiversity. By creating a native plant garden, each patch of habitat becomes part of a collective effort to nurture and sustain the living landscape for birds and other animals.

    

Over the past century, urbanization has taken intact, ecologically productive land and fragmented and transformed it with lawns and exotic ornamental plants. The continental U.S. lost a staggering 150 million acres of habitat and farmland to urban sprawl, and that trend isn’t slowing. The modern obsession with highly manicured “perfect” lawns alone has created a green, monoculture carpet across the country that covers over 40 million acres. The human-dominated landscape no longer supports functioning ecosystems, and the remaining isolated natural areas are not large enough to support wildlife.

Native plants are those that occur naturally in a region in which they evolved. They are the ecological basis upon which life depends, including birds and people. Without them and the insects that co-evolved with them, local birds cannot survive. For example, research by the entomologist Doug Tallamy has shown that native oak trees support over 500 species of caterpillars whereas ginkgos, a commonly planted landscape tree from Asia, host only 5 species of caterpillars. When it takes over 6,000 caterpillars to raise one brood of chickadees, that is a significant difference.

Unfortunately, most of the landscaping plants available in nurseries are alien species from other countries. These exotic plants not only sever the food web, but many have become invasive pests, outcompeting native species and degrading habitat in remaining natural areas.

Landscaping choices have meaningful effects on the populations of birds and the insects they need to survive. The bottom line is this—homeowners, landscapers, and local policy makers can benefit birds and other wildlife by simply selecting native plants when making their landscaping decisions. To do your part, you can use Audubon's handy database to discover native plants in your area and which types of birds they'll attract. Just enter your zipcode, and it's as easy as that. 

For more information on why native plants are so important to helping birds and other wildlife, see the below video and benefits. 

Video clip: Doug Tallamy https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xLn5UCM_tv8&feature=emb_title

Benefits of Native Plants:

Low maintenance:
Once established, native plants generally require little maintenance.

Beauty:
Many native plants offer beautiful showy flowers, produce abundant colorful fruits and seeds, and brilliant seasonal changes in colors from the pale, thin greens of early spring, to the vibrant yellows and reds of autumn. 

Healthy Places for People:
Lawns and the ubiquitous bark-mulched landscapes are notorious for requiring profuse amounts of artificial fertilizers and synthetic chemical pesticides and herbicides. The traditional suburban lawn, on average, has 10x more chemical pesticides per acre than farmland. By choosing native plants for your landscaping, you are not only helping wildlife, but you are creating a healthier place for yourself, your family, and your community. 

Helping the Climate:
Landscaping with native plants can combat climate change. In addition to the reduced noise and carbon pollution from lawn mower exhaust, many native plants, especially long-living trees like oaks and maples, are effective at storing the greenhouse gas carbon dioxide. 

Conserving Water:
Because native plants are adapted to local environmental conditions, they require far less water, saving time, money, and perhaps the most valuable natural resource, water.

Wildlife
In addition to providing vital habitat for birds, many other species of wildlife benefits as well. The colorful array of butterflies and moths, including the iconic monarch, the swallowtails, tortoiseshells, and beautiful blues, are all dependent on very specific native plant species. Native plants provide nectar for pollinators including hummingbirds, native bees, butterflies, moths, and bats. They provide protective shelter for many mammals. The native nuts, seeds, and fruits produced by these plants offer essential foods for all forms of wildlife.

Spring NATIVE Flowers @Home=Habitat Restoration

Winter is Prime Time for Invasive Woody Plant Control

Controlling invasive plant species is a year-round battle. While many of the herbaceous invasives are best tackled in spring and summer, winter is the ideal time to target woody species such as autumn olive, buckthorn, and Asian bush honeysuckle.

Depending on species, property type, budget, and other considerations, there are many ways to keep woody invasive plants in check. There are many ways to attack this problem:

Winter Invasive Plant Control Methods

Cut Stump Treatment – This method utilizes a chainsaw to fell individual trees and works well for anything from 1” saplings to mature trees. The stump is then treated with herbicide to prevent regrowth.

Cutting with a Brushcutter – For stands of smaller trees and shrubs up to 2-3” in diameter, a brushcutter can be a quicker option. You might have to bring in a chainsaw to take out the larger trees. This method also requires treating the stumps with herbicide.

Forestry Mulching – A forestry mulcher or mower is essentially a skid steer with a large rotating cylinder on the front. It will handle thick brush and even trees up to 6”DBH, turning them into a pile of chips. For properties with a lot of woody material to be removed, this can be a very efficient and cost-effective method. It is fast, labor-saving, and eliminates the need for brush removal from the property.

Girdling – Where larger single trees need to be killed but left standing, girdling is a cost-effective method. A chainsaw is used to cut a ring around the outside of the tree at waist height, ½” into the cambium of the tree. Herbicide is applied to the wound, killing the tree over time. This method is cost-effective but is inadvisable for public or heavily utilized properties due to the hazards of standing dead wood.

Hack and Squirt – A similar method is to take a small hatchet and hack a circle of wounds at the base of the tree or shrub, then squirt herbicide into the wounds to kill the tree. This method works well for invasive shrubs like buckthorn and Asian bush honeysuckle.

Basal Bark Treatment – Here, the herbicide is used directly on the trunk of the tree without cutting through the bark. Typically, the bottom 18-24” of the tree is sprayed with a combination of Garlon 4 (oil-soluble triclopyr) and basal oil, which soaks in and kills it. It doesn’t work for every species but can be useful in certain circumstances. One of these is controlling Tree of Heaven since exposure to the sap of this tree has been linked to risk of heart conditions.

Prescribed Burning – Controlled burning of a site can also be an effective way to control both woody and herbaceous invasives on certain sites since invasive plants come up sooner in the spring than natives and have shallower root systems. Burns must be timed correctly to target invasives without harming native species.

Are Herbicides Necessary?
Any time woody materials are cut it is recommended to treat the wounds with herbicide quickly, applying it directly to the cambium layer of the plant. Not treating the wound will allow new sprouts to emerge during the following growing season. Aggressive, invasive species can quickly recover, rendering control efforts useless and/or adding greatly to the cost of treatment.

Most of the above methods do require the use of herbicides to achieve effective results. However, winter application allows for very targeted treatment, minimizing herbicide use by concentrating it only where it needs to go and limiting off-target damage to nearby plants. It takes far less herbicide to apply around the edge of a stump or hack and squirt around the base of a dormant tree than to spray an entire tree in leaf.

It is important to use herbicides responsibly. Make sure you are using products rated for the habitat in question. For instance, wetland projects must utilize water safe chemicals (such as water safe forms of triclopyr) to avoid adverse effects to fish, amphibians, and invertebrates inhabiting the ecosystem. Also, if you are treating in sub-freezing conditions, choose an herbicide that contains an antifreeze agent, such as Pathway RTU or oil-based triclopyr.

Planning for Winter Invasive Plant Control

Whether you are interested in restoring a native plant community, looking to meet regulatory requirements for wetland permitting, or simply want to keep the brush on your property under control, fall and winter are great times to plan your offense against invasives. By assessing your site requirements, types of species, and budget, we can help you create the right invasive plant control plan for your property.

  • Visit CONTACT US Page

  • Call John 248-672-7611

  • Email Liz - info@naturalcommunityservices.com

Woody Invasive Species Control & Management

Invasive Species Control & Management

All too often projects fail due to lack of proper--or any--maintenance.  To help support a project’s long-term success, NCS creates robust yet flexible maintenance and management plans. 

To compare project success against specifications, we perform formal vegetation monitoring using scientific sampling procedures. Our team provides regular maintenance over a three to five year period, which greatly improves project success. It helps to control invasive and exotic species, ensure optimal water levels are present, and quickly identify other management actions necessary for vegetation establishment and success.

Regular site inspection and monitoring by NCS staff throughout the growing season allows us to gauge native plant density and composition, and provide a rapid response to undesirable weeds, herbivore predation, or lack of adequate moisture

Water control and temporary irrigation is sometimes necessary during periods of drought, and especially during the first growing season. NCS staff monitor site conditions to ensure sufficient hydration is present.

Overseeding and supplemental planting can help a project become established more quickly. By the second growing season after installation, NCS staff can determine if overseeding or supplemental planting is needed, and provide the appropriate services.

NCS’s trained specialists are skilled at various forms of exotic and invasive plant species control, treatment, and removal. To create and restore native plant ecosystems, the NCS team can provide the following services: 

Prescribed Burning

Prescribed burning reduces the number of woody species, enhances the health of herbaceous species, and clears away thatch, allowing for new growth in the spring. NCS has certified burn managers who are involved in all facets of a prescribed burn, including preparing the burn plan, obtaining permits, notifying the public, preparing the site, igniting the fire, controlling the burn, and documenting the entire process.

Selective Herbicide Application

Selective herbicide application controls many perennial weed species in uplands and wetlands. We ensure that chemical selection, rates, and application methods are appropriate and safely applied with minimal off-target damage.

Woody Shrub Removal

Woody shrub removal is used for sites with trees and shrubs that provide insufficient fuel for prescribed fire and where canopy shading has suppressed the ground layer vegetation. Removal can be by hand saws, forestry mowers, or other equipment, depending on site conditions and ecological sensitivity. Selected herbicides are normally used to prevent re-sprouting.

Mowing

Mowing can suppress non-native plants during the initial stages after seeding without negatively impacting natives. Because native plants concentrate their early energy toward expanding their root systems, mowing is an effective maintenance tool in the first few seasons to control weeds. Timely mowing keeps weeds from reseeding and allows sunlight to reach the soil line where the newly seeded natives are establishing.

Woody plants can be controlled THIS WINTER AT 25% off, contact us now! info@naturalcommunityservices.com & 248-672-7611

Creating Sustainable Landscapes through Native Landscape Design and Brush Control

Friends of the Rouge provides these lists of local rain garden service providers to help reduce barriers for residents, with Natural Community Services ranked number 1!!! Control invasives and plant natives!

https://therouge.org/rain-garden-pros/

https://www.naturalcommunityservices.com/

https://www.creatingsustainablelandscapes.com/services/invasive-species-removal/

https://www.facebook.com/CreatingSustainableLandscapes/

https://www.houzz.com/professionals/landscape-contractors/creating-sustainable-landscapes-llc-pfvwus-pf~277271687

https://www.creatingsustainablelandscapes.com/native-plants/

https://www.linkedin.com/company/creating-sustainable-landscapes-llc/

https://www.linkedin.com/in/drewlathin/

https://www.wildflowersmich.org/index.php?menu=13

https://content.yardmap.org/explore/featured-sites/house-on-the-little-prairie/

https://www.creatingsustainablelandscapes.com/native-plants/

Winter Invasive Brush & Design Discounts are Creating Sustainable Landscapes

New reference links for you to learn better stewardship, contact john@naturalcommunityservices.com with questions:

The Biota of North America Program – bonap.org

DIY Guide to Alternative Lawns – lsa.umich.edu/mbg…Alternative_Lawns.pdf

Huron River Watershed Council – hrwc.org

Lady Bird Johnson Wildflower Center – wildflower.org

Landscape for Life – landscapeforlife.org

Legacy Land Conservancy – legacylandconservancy.org

Matthaei Botanical Gardens and and Nichols Arboretum – lsa.umich.edu/mbg

Michigan Audubon – michiganaudubon.org

Michigan Botanical Club – michbotclub.org

Michigan Flora – michiganflora.net/home.aspx

Michigan Invasive Species Coalition – michiganinvasives.org

Michigan Native Plant Producers Association – mnppa.org

Midwest Invasive Species Information Network – misin.msu.edu

Monarch Watch – www.monarchwatch.org/waystations

National Wildlife Federation – www.nwf.org/How-to-Help/Garden-for-Wildlife.aspx

Natural Area Preservation – Ann Arbor – Natural Area Preservation

Natural Areas Preservation Program – Washtenaw County – ewashtenaw.org…natac.html

The Nature Conservancy – nature.org/…michigan/index.htm

Rain Gardens – A How To Manual for Homeowners – …uwex.edu/pubs/pdf/rgmanual.pdf

Rain Gardens.org – raingardens.org

The Stewardship Network – stewardshipnetwork.org

Wildflower Association of Michigan – wildflowersmich.org

Wild Ones – wildones.org

Design Process

conceptual design/master plan

We provide the following landscape design services (which include, but are not limited to):

  • An initial client meeting & site visit to review the scope of the project and landscape program, from which we will compose a landscape proposal for a Master Plan Phase contract for approval.

  • Coordination and review with project architect and design team for building design drawings, any regulatory issues and landscape design intentions.

  • Survey coordination, if needed.

  • Review local zoning ordinances, building codes or other site-specific regulatory criteria that may impact the proposed site planning.

  • Preparation of initial concept plans and sketches which incorporate program elements, vision, and use of the site, represented as a hand drawn, color rendered overall Schematic Site Plan.

  • Preparation of a precedent images booklet to support and help communicate the proposed design ideas.

  • Preparation of 3-D drawings and perspectives to communicate the design intent (billed as additional service).

  • A client and architect presentation meeting to review Schematic Site Plan and precedent images.

  • Plans in this phase generally have enough information to provide a global budget for the project. A more complete estimate can be more accurately determined during the design development phase, when the project has more design detail.

The conceptual design/ master plan phase ends and transitions into the design development phase upon client presentation, review, and approval of the general overall conceptual site design.

Phase 2

Design Development/ Construction Drawings

Landscape design is further developed in coordination with final changes and revisions to the building design.

  • Drawings are brought to a more detailed and accurate level for design development construction, through the use of AutoCAD.

  • Preparation of site sections and elevation drawings as needed to study and review, price, and implement the site design.

  • Site layout and materials including walls, steps, paving, driveways, and other pertinent hardscape features, are discussed, reviewed and developed in greater design detail.

  • Schematic detailing for hardscape including walls, steps, paving, terraces, pools, fountains, fire pits, etc.

  • Site grading and drainage is studied in detail. Spot grades for steps, walls, walkways, patios, lawns and all relevant landscape features are given thorough attention and review.

  • Coordination of drainage and/or retaining wall design with licensed civil/structural engineers, if needed.

  • Obtain necessary permitting from local, state, federal or other regulatory agencies.

  • Design and detailing of any wood or metal structures such as fences, gates, railings, pergolas, arbors, sheds, garden structures, and any other design specific structures.

  • Preparation of an initial schematic planting plan, plant list, and booklet of supporting plant images for client presentation and review. Species and locations are adjusted until client approval.

  • The final planting plan, plant list, and planting images will locate trees, shrubs, lawn, ground covers and perennials, and label them accordingly with plant species names, sizes, spacing, quantities, and any comments regarding plant habit or characteristics.

  • Design and layout of landscape lighting, fixture selections, transformer locations, exterior outlets, outdoor speakers, and coordination with house electrician and owner regarding power supply and switching locations.

  • Coordination of irrigation design and irrigation layout zones for planting beds and lawns.

  • A preliminary set of bid drawings is typically issued to one or more landscape contractors to determine a more precise budget for the project in the form of a landscape bid estimate. This process will assist clients in reviewing the budget and inform their decision-making process and priorities, and finalize the design and details drawings themselves, which are issued for actual landscape construction.

  • Final construction drawings will include a comprehensive set of drawings with necessary layout and details for construction.

  • Construction drawings are finalized and issued to client.

    Phase 3

    Bid Coordination

    Bid estimates and bid drawings will help to finalize the budget and determine a contractor who will perform the installation work.

    • Preparation of a detailed set of drawings, an itemized bid form and bid specifications.

    • Issued for bid to qualified and experienced landscape contractors.

    • Coordination of bid clarification, alternates and addenda.

    • Review and level out the bids, any discrepancies, bid alternates and prepare a detailed comparison spreadsheet to review with the client.

    • Coordinate any bid negotiations on behalf of the client during the selection process.

    • Coordination of contractor selection and final contract award.

    Phase 4

    Construction Administration/ Construction Oversight

    Construction oversight and review, including: project meetings with clients, architects, contractors, consultants, subcontractors, and vendors.

    • Review and oversee construction and installation work progress on site, when possible or through photo documentation, to ensure the proposed landscape project is implemented as designed and detailed from the construction drawings.

    • Review mockups for stonework (walls, paving, etc.) and other hardscape items.

    • Review and comment on shop drawings and submittals.

    • Preparation of site meeting notes, site work clarifications and change orders.

    • Tree tagging and plant material selection.

    • Layout of plant material on site with landscape contractor.

    Phase 5

    Post Construction

    After projects are completed we often stay involved on most of our projects to assist with the following:.

    • As-Built drawings: Planting, utility, lighting, irrigation, etc.

    • Planting design for pollinator, herb, vegetable and cutting gardens.

    • Fall & winter invasive species removal & replacement - design and selection.

    • Maintenance reviews with property managers, arborists, contractors and staff gardeners/ landscapers.

    • Preparation of plant maintenance manuals.

    • Selection and procurement of site furnishings and garden ornament and antiques.

Vegetation Maintenance

To ensure our clients receive the highest quality service and technical expertise, out team members receive continuing education on the latest and most innovative techniques, and they draw upon our experience from proven management practices. Maintaining native landscapes, including erosion controls, mulch application, irrigation, mowing, weed control, and brush removal. requires an advanced understanding of habitat restoration plans and green infrastructure maintenance best practices. With TNC, & Greening of Detroit, NCS wrote the book on it! Our ecologists work with contractors, municipalities, developers, utilities, and other landowners. Our GPS/GIS capabilities provide the most accurate and technologically up-to-date information to our clients. .NCS is certified and licensed to perform herbicide applications in Indiana, Michigan, and Ohio.

Natural Community Services, LLC Northville, MI 48167 | West Bloomfield, MI 48324 248.513.1909 nick@naturalcommunityservices.com SAVE BEES, KILL INVASIVE BRUSH!